Thứ Tư, 27 tháng 4, 2011

At what age can my dog start hunting upland birds?

At what age can my dog start hunting upland birds?

I have a 3 month ancient English Springer Spaniel pup. I would like him to be my bird dog someday. At what age can he really hunt, and when should I start schooling him on hunting responsibilities? I do not really have much bird hunting experience for myself. I hunt huge game but have always wanted to bird hunt. I just don’t have anyone to do it with, so I got my own partner!

Also, is it possible to completely teach him at home, or should I seek professional advice?

Thanks!

Answer by Herbie & Fern-Hoochie
You can start schooling him now, if he is mentally ready.
Get him used to bird.- dead game wings, for him to just carry around.
You can introduce him to the basic commands that he will need to use as well-
*he needs to be pleased sitting for a long time
*he needs to be steady to things flying and being terrified all around him
*he needs to have a reliable retract
*he must be able to freeze
there are much more. He needs to be trained to a whistle though-acme 211 1/2.

You can start him off on dummies as well.
And get him used to swimming ahead of schedule on too- but no terrible experiences.
As well as load noises- remember you gotta shoot over him- he can’t be gun shy.

It is possible for you to teach him at home if you know what you are doing. If you don’t then get professional advice produce you don’t want it to go incorrect.

I wouldn’t recommend really taking him hunting in anticipation of he’s 12 months preferably- you don’t want them to be too young. and you certainly do not want to rush him.

Sometimes it is best to start when they are about 8 months. Hunters and gun men etc, don’t start properly till 6 months. Well that’s how we roll in the UK. But we don’t have our dogs solely for birds, produce out of the season their aren’t many birds and so we have to work them with rabbits- which can be harder to teach as the dog is vital to freeze etc.

EDIT-
I didn’t start my b1tch ill she was 10months. I did all the schooling lonely, in anticipation of I reached a point everywhere I no longer knew what to do- so I tied a club and she’s now a partly trained gundog-well doubtless better than that- I just haven’t shot over her yet so she can’t be considered fully trained.

Answer by ♫ La vita è misteriosa ♫
How refreshing to see someone who really desires to WORK their dog, instead of breeding the daylights out of it or neglecting it medical care, or trying to call it a teacup micro schnoodlezu.

I would google hunting associations near you and start there. I reckon hunters will generally wait for the dog to mature a bit more, at least beyond 6 months of age, and will doubtless seriously work the dog closer to a year ancient. The thought is to not overly tax a young mind and body – you don’t want to shut the dog down and make it apprehensive of working, nor do you want to stress his limbs and joints.

Also, ring up your breeder and question them who they recommend for schooling – even if they don’t hunt themselves, surely some of their pups have gone to hunting homes, or can refer you to the ESS breed club for more information.

Give us your zip code and we’ll help you find breeders and clubs in your area.

Answer by Schmemdog
People disagree on this point. For upland dogs, I’m in the camp of later is really better. Exposure to wings and birdscent can be started as ahead of schedule as possible, but schooling everywhere there’s more pressure on the dog (whoah schooling, formal OB, collar conditioning) should be started between 6mo and a year. Retriever people start earlier, but retriever schooling is more OB heavy. With the pointing and flushing dogs, you want to have a confident dog, and you want to renovate and keep that antural bird drive as intact as possible. Pressure too ahead of schedule can quash a small of that drive and independence, and you can end up with a ‘sticky’ dog who won’t venture far enough out on its own to be much excellent at finding birds.

As far as force fetching goes, many retriever people will commence with ‘hold’ (pretty low pressure) as soon as the adult teeth are all in and go to the fetch with ear pinch or toe hitch after a excellent hold is established. Many upland people wait in anticipation of a year for force fetch with their pointing a flushing breeds, though.

It IS possible to teach him as an amateur, but I would invest in a excellent schooling DVD program. There are a bunch of excellent ones, and they walk you through the entire process.

Here’s a link to a few:
http://gundogsupply.com/books—videos.html

Excellent Luck!

Add: H&F’s advice about whistle schooling and joining a group is really excellent. I took it, and now have a whole network for my lab!

Add your own answer in the comments!

Rotting tree at former Bell Labs complicated, Holmdel NJ
at&t wiki

Image by Chris Devers
Tried to visit (what’s left of) the Bell Labs facilities in Holmdel, NJ. The Eero Saarinen-designed main office buildings seem to be closed, but for now at least are still in excellent repair.

The really fascinating thing to me though was the radio telescope atop Telegraph Hill at their Crawford Hill facility, everywhere Arno Penzias and Robert Wilson used the Horn Antenna to measure the cosmic microwave background raditation, and thus provided some of the first proof of the Huge Bang theory of the universe.

Unfortunately, though the telescope has been established as a national historic landmark, it’s still on confidential property, and the top of the hill is blocked from public access — all I could get was glimpses through the plants from down the hill. Oh well.

The side lobby to the Holmdel complicated was barricaded, but the main lobby around the corner was open, and you could drive right up to the other side of this gate.

I have a ’93 Ford Ranger and I need to replace my wheel cylinder. I’ve got that part covered but I’m not sure about what tension to set the star wheel at after I re-bed in the brake drum. I imagine it needs to be equal to the opposing side? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

Answer by rickinmn
Adjust the shoes in anticipation of they are just making contact with the drum as you spin it. It helps to leave the tire on while you do this. Once you’ve set the shoes to lightly contact the drum, the self adjusters will take over from there.

Rick

I’m a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB’s: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

Answer by Carman Nguyen
Turn the self adjuster in anticipation of the wheel can not turn,then back off till it can be turned by hand.

Answer by Scott
set the tensioner on both sides so you can easily slide drum on and off, with the drums BOTH on press the brake pedals 3 or 4 times then spin the drums by hand, you should not hear any dragging at all, the automatic adjusters will set the shoes to proper setting by backing up and pressing brakes HARD, do this a few times. delight don’t forget to bleed your system and top off your fluid with d.o.t. 3 fluid only.

Answer by mister ss
both sides have to be set equal, I always set each one so there is some resistance when you turn the drum, not a lot but enough that you can hear the pads rubbing.

Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!

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